Questions for Jerry Montgomery

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kingco
Posts: 64
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:11 pm

Re: Questions for Jerry Montgomery

#31 Post by kingco » Tue Oct 15, 2019 6:30 pm

Thanks for the reply Jerry,
From what I can see, I believe that the foredeck does have a double layer of coring and all build details on he boat appear to be rock solid. Sage seems to not cut corners in build quality. I never have any excessive sag or slack on the side shrouds. I can bang upwind overpowered with no problems whatsoever. Just the typical 2 or so inches of slack in the lee shroud like you mentioned. It is only when sailing off the wind that the forestay ends up going quite slack. The youtube link I'm posting below was taken just a couple months after I took delivery of the boat. I had set the rigging up just as it came from the factory and hand tight like had been mentioned on the forum. On this particular crossing of the Rosario strait it was quite bumpy but not all that windy when I first encountered the forestay going slack. It scared me since I hadn't seen it before and I immediately reefed. Then I took this video and reefed again. The wind didn't really call for the reef, I was just scared the rig would fall. At anchor the next morning I moved both side shrouds one pin hole tighter (thus also raking the mast aft a tad more) and this made the lever on the forestay require a pretty hard push to get it to pin in the closed position. This certainly lessened the tendency for the forestay to go slack off the wind, but it will still happen with a full main at around 12 or so knots, with one reef in at around 17 knots and with two reefs somewhere in he low 20 knot range. Basically every time i see this begin to happen, I have just put another reef in since it scares me, but as mentioned before, this sometimes leaves me wanting for more power between gusts and the helm doesn't feel overpowered.
Since the rigging seems fine under big loads going upwind, I can only assume that the solution would be to move the side shroud attachment points further aft or to rig running backstays (Which I'm working on right now) for downwind work. What do you think about the video? I know it is kind of hard to see but you can see a few times it goes pretty slack.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MpwjF3W ... e=youtu.be

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Jerry
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Location: California
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Re: Questions for Jerry Montgomery

#32 Post by Jerry » Mon Oct 21, 2019 4:06 pm

Only thing I can think of is that on a run, the lever arm between the mast and the chainplates is much shorter than on a reach, which would put more compression on the mast and cabin top. I've sailed the Montgomery 15 much more than the Sage, but they are identical in terms of mechanics, and carried a spinnaker in about 30 knot winds, for hours, and the forestay was moving around but no problem. The cabin top was probably compressing but not enough to notice. Because of the distances of the lever arms, the cat version of the Sage is probably be not too different than a sloop with a spinnaker. It's good that you're aware of the slackness, but I don't see it being a problem. It might be interesting to wedge a temporary compression post in place and see what happens. If you do this, please let me know the conclusions.

Obviously, the reason for the stiffeners in the deck is to eliminate the need for a post.

bnickeson
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 14, 2021 8:52 am

Re: Questions for Jerry Montgomery

#33 Post by bnickeson » Mon Jun 14, 2021 9:01 am

Hello Jerry – I have a 1983 Montgomery 17 that I bought 20 some years ago and sailed in the SF Bay for a few years, but then trailered for next 15. Over that time, a significant bulge and cracking developed at the line of one side of the shoal keel that I believe was caused by a leak inside the keel slot, that allowed salt water into the shot in the keel, which rusted and expanded the shot volume, causing the bulge and crack.

Now that I am retired and wanting to sail again, my repair thought was to simply grind down and sand the bulged and cracked area, and then apply several layers of fiberglass strips and resin, to seal that outer crack. But I realized that the leaking that is probably in the keel slot would likely allow the shot, which I think is dried out after all these years, to get wet again in sailing, and repeat the rust-expand-bulge-crack process. So, ideally, there would be a way to either seal the crack inside the keel slot, or alternatively somehow inject some protective type of liquid or gel substance into the shot volume, that could coat the shot and then dry and seal the individual shot particles. Although I don’t have a good idea of what such a liquid sealing agent might be.

In any case, I was wondering if you or anyone else had experienced such a problem, and how they dealt with it, or otherwise if you had any suggestions for fixing this problem. I tried to send a couple photos of the problem but wasn't able to attach them.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Bob Nickeson

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